Jeju (제주도), South Korea
Sites: Sangumburi (산굼부리) Crater, Wonang Falls (원낭폭포), Jeongbang Waterfall (정방폭포), Cheonjiyeon Waterfall (천지연폭포), Woljeongri Beach (월정리해변), Hamdeok (함덕) Beach, Hallasan (한라산), Songsan Ilchulbong (성산일출봉), Sinchang Windmill Coastal Road (신창풍차해안도로)
2025-04-24
BUDGET
Stay: AirBnB in Seogwipo; Grand Hyatt Jeju-si
Chill island vibes throughout.
Jeju is like some other islands I've been to; Penghu in Taiwan, and the Maldives atoll come to mind. The people are friendlier and the sun feels happier here. Life feels provincial and relaxed in the best way possible.
Being a volcanic island, Jeju offers several geological features: a crater, waterfalls, mountains, and beaches, all within an hour drive. So, that's what we did. We started with the crater.
And then subsequently went to the waterfalls. They're not the biggest ones, but the waters are beautiful.
Then the next morning, we hiked to the top of Hallasan, the highest point on the island. Unfortunately, it was still snowing at the top so the last section was closed. The trail is a mix of this weird horse-hair looking carpet, paved steps, and volcanic rock. The volcanic rock is just wide enough to step comfortable on, making rock-hopping a pleasant feature of the hike.
That same day, we made it down to the beach. Beaches with shallow shelves dot the Jeju coastline, giving it a light blue colour. Off in the distance, you often see windmills.
One cultural phenomenon unique to Jeju are the Haenyeo, or "Sea Women". These women dive in the open ocean for seafood without any gear, risking their lives every dive. Apparently, this culture was so strong that at one point, Jeju gender norms in the household flipped: women working through selling seafood, and men staying at home taking care of children. The places that they dive are pretty amazing -- in the water, with the background of steep cliffs from the mountain craters (Songsan Ilchulbong).
Jeju also has outlying islands, a famous one being Udo. Just a short 15 minute ride away, Udo offers even more pretty beaches and a relaxing axmosphere. We rent a bicycle and cycle around it for half a day. There's even a famous peanut ice cream shop here.
And, one of the delicacies here, Jeju black pig. Can't miss a barbecue with black pig.
While I'm not the biggest fan of Korea for cultural reasons, I think Jeju offers something different. I feel that the pressures of city living--speed, money, appearances--dissipate here. The geography shapes a different psyche (as many islands do) that really show through interactions with people. You feel the pleasant hospitality when you step into the ma and pa black pork restaurant, where they smile at you and chat in broken English, while patiently cooking the meat. The shores are a great place to relax and look out into an endless azure sea. Driving a car and soaking in the wind was one of the biggest highlights, and that is such simple bliss. Amazing island; will come back.